If you've had enough of the coast road, Benahavís is the obvious escape. It's under half an hour's drive from the apartment, up in the hills north of the Golden Mile, and it feels a world away. The village is a tangle of whitewashed lanes and cobbled streets, surrounded by some of the best golf on the coast, including Los Arqueros, Flamingos and La Zagaleta. It's also known as “the dining room of the Costa del Sol”, which is the main reason to go, though not the only one.
Eat: from long lunches to simple menus
Benahavís has far more good restaurants than a village this size has any right to. Part of the reason is its respected catering school, the Escuela de Hostelería, which has trained many of the area's chefs. At busy times of the year, it's best to call ahead and reserve a table, especially at the more expensive restaurants.
- Los Abanicos (Calle Málaga) is the name that tops every list: strings of garlic and dried peppers hanging from the beams, big portions of traditional Spanish cooking, and a warm welcome. Baby squid, thick steaks and slow-cooked suckling lamb are the dishes people talk about.
- Rufino is the first restaurant you meet as you drive in, an established favourite for meat, fish and classic Andalusian dishes.
- Amanhavís, Flor de Lis (Plaza de España) and La Escalera de Balthazar are other well-regarded tables for a longer, more special lunch.
- Bodegón Gallery pairs a restaurant with a wine shop, if you'd like to take something home.
- For something lighter on the wallet, look for the small places offering a menú del día, and try Bodeguita El Chico and Pizzeria Canela. The Escuela de Hostelería itself serves meals prepared by its students.
Swim: the Río Guadalmina river walk
Drive up from the coast and you'll see people in swimwear walking along the road, which is a surprise this far from the sea. They're heading for the Río Guadalmina and its gorge, Las Angosturas (the Cañón de las Angosturas). The usual routine is to park near the Ermita de la Virgen del Rosario, walk up the path above the gorge to the pools near Charca de las Mozas, then wade, scramble and swim back down to where you started. Allow about two hours, with rock pools to jump into and a narrow gorge where the walls almost meet overhead.
- You need to be a confident swimmer. Some sections can't be waded.
- Wear water shoes or trainers that can get wet, and bring a waterproof bag for your phone and keys.
- October is cooler and the water is lower after summer, but check the weather first and don't go after heavy rain.
- Guided canyoning tours run from the Parque Torre Leonera car park if you'd rather go with a guide.
- Don't leave valuables in the car. Break-ins at the car park are a regular complaint in reviews.
Explore: castles, towers and a quiet park
- Castillo de Montemayor: the ruins of a 10th-century Moorish castle on a hilltop, reached by a steep hike of around 8 km there and back. On a clear day the view takes in the whole coast, Gibraltar and even Africa.
- Torre de la Leonera and Parque Torre Leonera: a 15th-century watchtower, one of five built to guard the castle, set in a lovely little park with ponds, a waterfall and a children's playground. Good for a picnic or a stroll after lunch.
- The Acequia de Guadalmina trail: an easy walk along the old irrigation channel, with views over the valley.
- The village itself: whitewashed houses, the Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario and plenty of places to wander between courses.
It's an easy day: a morning walk or swim, a long lunch and an afternoon in the hills. Staying with us this October? Ask us about your dates and we'll help you plan a day around it.
